During Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties (220-581), Fu Jin became more popular, use not only at home but also in ceremonies. During Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Reign (560-578) Fu Jin got improved. Four strips were tailored out of a square piece of cloth to wrap the head. Two strips were tied at back of the head dangling and the other “feet” were tied on the opposite direction. This kind of scarf was known as Fu Tou. During that time, hats became popular in the Central Plains. With the increasing number of people wearing hats, hat styles were updated constantly and material varied. Thus, hats were not limited to keep warm. In Northern and Southern Dynasties, a kind of hat made of gauze was used as men’s wear. This type of hat had two colors; white was worn by aristocrats, black was for the civilians.
During Sui and Tang Dynasties (581-907), Fu Tou was men’s wear. After padded with infilling (known as Jinzi) to make it strong. Fu Tou didn’t look as soft as it used to be. Fu Tou underwent great changes in the Five Dynasties (907-960). It looked like a square-shaped hat with two layers on the top tilting in front. In Sui and Tang Dynasties (581-907), hats followed the styles in Northern and Southern Dynasties (420-581). Gauze hats were still popular. Li mao, woven by bamboo, grass and felt, was commonly used at that time. The round shaped Li mao was very common, which had a big and wide brim to keep away from sunshine and protect people from getting wet when they worked in the field. Custom of Han ethnic group was deeply influenced by Western ethnic minorities in Tang Dynasty. Hu mao which was worn by the Central Plains and prevailed at that time.